Ecuador North Andes 11-25 to 11-29-2023
The picture above is Cotopaxi Volcano. It was in view during most of this land adventure when it was not behind clouds!!
I signed up for this post trip through Silversea wanting to see as much of Ecuador as I could. It was stated that the tour would only happen if enough guests signed up for it.
Imagine my surprise when I was picked up at Quito airport by my guide, Fabricio, South American Tours, and I was the only one taking this journey. And what an incredible journey it was with Fabricio as my guide and wonderful Nelson as my driver!!!
They dropped me off at the beautiful Marriott in Quito where I met up with my shipmate, Pat Clarke for a lovely dinner.
Pat was doing a private day trip through Quito and then flying back to Sydney.
Sunday, November 26, 2023
I chose to start my adventure at Papallacta Hot Springs. It is a 2 hour drive from Quito and a hidden paradise. Fabricio brought his wonderful wife, Andrea and adorable 7 year old son Kai and it was truly a beautifully relaxing way to start the land adventure!!
At an altitude of 10,800ft in the Andes mountains lies Papallacta known for its geothermal hot springs.
The resort/spa has 8 pools of various size and temperatures including a glacier cold water pool that I did check out (but not for long!)
After soaking in all the pools and a delicious lunch, I got a luxurious spa treatment!
It was the perfect beginning of this Andes Adventure!
That evening Fabricio and I had dinner at Lavid in old Quito town center. It was delicious Ecuadorian cuisine (which of course included the potato soup) and a fabulous view of old town Quito
The White building to the right is the Presidental house. Daniel Roy Gilchrist Noboa Azin just took over the presidency on November 23, 2023 after President Lasso was ousted. Some refer to Noboa as “baby President “ because he only just turned 36 years old. But there is high hopes for him to turn the country in the right direction!
Monday, November 27, 2023
Fab and Nelson picked me up at the Marriott with all my baggage (I do come with a lot of baggage) and headed to Otavalo.
The drive through the both arid and fertile landscape of the Guayllabamba gorge was spectacular.
Our first stop was a rose plantation
Ecuador roses are highly regarded all over the world. Every where you go in Ecuador there are plethora of roses on display. AND these are the “rejects” that the locals get to enjoy!! Because of being on the equator the stems grow straight, thick and long.
You can buy beautiful “rejects” in Ecuador for $3.00 for 3-4 dozen!! And they are so fresh they will last about 3-4 weeks!!!
The perfect roses are shipped all over the world
Above you see The long , thick, straight stem!
On way from Greenhouse to be shipped throughout the world
This is the warehouse where they chose roses by stem length, quality and get ready to ship. The infrastructure includes 270 non- unionized employees, 70% of which are women!
According to Fab, Chinese favor the rainbow color roses and Russia likes the deep dark red
Glitter for a wedding??
Hacienda La Campania
Built in 1919
Up the road from the greenhouses and warehouse is the owner’s hacienda. The family no longer live here but come back and forth for picnics, weddings, and celebrations.
Hacienda’s beautiful gardens
All the Haciendas I visited have their own chapels The Chapel here has been renovated, only the stone portal, the wooden door and walls are colonial.
Below use to be the barn which was 1605 Jesuit barn building. It is now used as showroom for buyers
From here we went to Octavalo market. It is the largest market of its kind in South America. Unfortunately I was visiting on a Monday and the market has the most vendors on Saturday. It was still a bit overwhelming! But anyone who knows me knows I found things to buy here!!
Next up lunch at the Hacianda Pinsaqui
This is one of the largest most important haciendas of the region. The first building was constructed in1793. The hacienda was destroyed by an earthquake in 1868. The walls of the chapel (which used to be larger) and part of the barn ( present day salon with chimney) remain intact. The rest is late 19th century with early 29th century addition.
Since 1880 Pinsaqui has been owned by Larrea family.
While eating a delicious lunch (which of course included potato soup) I met the current owner who was dressed quite casually in jeans and very friendly!!
Now on to Peguche where I got to watch a very skilled weaver at work and shop in the upscale shop (where yes, more to buy - suitcases getting packed tight!!!)
Showing how alpaca is dyed with plants, flowers and as shown above, with a bug found on cactus
Showing spinning the wool.
From here we went to a town that is known for its leather products. Exhausted as I was I still needed Christmas presents- hence I do not remember the town name!
Finally to Hacienda Zuleta where I spent 2 fabulous nights
But being so tired I went to bed before dinner so I could recharge and be ready for the next day!!
Tuesday, November 28,2023
Refreshed and ready to go I got on a horse, Canela
(Spanish for cinnamon) to ride to the Andean condor reserve on the property
While once 6,000 hectares in size, the hacienda now only has 2,000, but is divided into several sectors owned by different family members and a large part of it is forest or paramo
The condors in this reserve were injured and rescued. Since the Andean condor is so endangered due to habitat loss, poisoning, trapping and shooting, this and other reserves are trying to increase the population. There are myths among some locals that the condor kill cows, bring bad luck, etc.,so education is extremely important
Andean condor are one of the largest and most massive birds that can fly. Their wingspan can reach up to 11feet.
Above is a father and 1 year old male condor. The female and male fought over this baby since before it hatched causing the caretaker, Jan, to remove the female to its own cage since the father was being the better caretaker!
Jan, the scientist in charge of the reserve, showed us the wingspan of an average Andean Condor
Cute llama on horseback ride back from reserve. I was hoping to see an Andean Bear ( also called “Spectacle bear” because of markings). These bear’s markings are unique to individual same as whale tails and human fingerprints.
I had to add this sign I saw on the highway 2 days ago.
This Condor reserve is one of the non-profit, charities started and supported by the family owners of the Hacienda Zuleta. The others charities they sponsor are school programs for local children, music and instrumental programs for local children, teaching cheese making, and weaving programs for local women. Zuleta weaving is one best in the world and quite famous
My breakfast, lunch and dinner place setting while here!!
I did enjoy one lovely lunch with a nice couple from Switzerland
After lunch Fab ( who by the way is my daughter’s age and an excellent tour guide!) and I took a carriage ride to beautiful waterfalls on the property
The carriage ride could only take us so far and then a hike up and down high areas which just about killed me due to the altitude:). But it was worth the hike !!
Another lovely pre dinner cheese and wine with the couple from Switzerland and Margarita. Margarita had fabulous tales about her family’s history. The hacienda has been in her family since 1898. The family history is rich with Ecuador President, and diplomats. Margarita’s father, Galo Plaza Lasso (February 17,1906 - January 28, 1989) was widely respected in international affairs and became Secretary General of the OAS. He was a modernizer and founder of the Coffee Institute and the National Institute for Development and Production to introduce improved seed stains, animal breeding stations and soil conservation methods.
But the best stories Margarita told were about her mother, who was a force to be reckoning with. They had 5 daughters (Margarita being the youngest) and one son.
Wednesday, November 29, 2023
In the morning I took a tour of the Hacienda. Some of the family still lives there. Margarita lives in a house on their property. The family, after much discussion, decided to open the Hacienda to guests….which I am very thankful for!
The barn dating back to 1691when it was owned by Jesuits
The courtyard
The portrait to left is Margarita’s Grandfather and on the right is her father.
This amazing inlay armoire on the left opens to a desk with a secret compartment!
The family chapel.
Every Christmas one of the local woman takes charge of embroidering the new dress for the virgin, making the new alter cloth , new embroidered clothing for baby Jesus, etc. This undertaking is very expressive for a local to do but it is a big honor!
After a delicious lunch Fabricio and Nelson picked me up for the ride back to Quito where I had a day room at the Wynn/airport hotel to wait for my “midnight plane to Georgia “! Literally - I had a midnight flight to Atlanta! Then on to Raleigh Durham- drive to the lake and back to reality!
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